London Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2026 has begun, driven by new CEO Laura Weir.
The official schedule is packed with familiar faces, with key designers like Simone Rocha, Richard Quinn, Erdem, and Roksanda each showcasing their own unique style.
The show opened with a theatrical extravaganza by Harris Reed, while Burberry closed with a music festival-inspired show.
Meanwhile, emerging Asian designers brought exciting energy:
Oscar Ouyang, a member of NewGen, made his debut, incorporating streetwear and folkloric elements into his knitwear experiments;
Susan Fang presented "Air-evolution" on the Barbican Conservatory Terrace, exploring the extension of air and life through lightweight materials and spherical structures.
The interplay of anniversaries for established fashion houses and the strength of emerging designers revitalized London's unique blend of tradition and experimentation.
◆ Richard Quinn
Richard Quinn's stage was covered in flowers and chandeliers, with Naomi Campbell making a commanding entrance.
The show, anchored by tulle skirts and bows, featured floral prints and layered tulle, creating a vibrant scene.
Meanwhile, leather and lacquer materials made a striking appearance, shattering the romantic atmosphere. Colors danced between creamy white and scarlet, creating a sharp undercurrent within the romance.
Accessories like lacquer gloves and high heels heightened the cool, hard-edged texture, elevating the blooming flowers beyond mere softness to a sharp, poetic expression.
◆ Simone Rocha
Simone Rocha's inspiration for this season was drawn from the photography book "Girl Pictures."
Like a sweet teenage dance, pastels and silvers intertwined, organza skirts, printed tees, and sparkling dresses clashed, models embracing pillows or shyly crossing arms.
A transparent vinyl cape draped over a pussy-bow coat, while ruffles echoed rhinestone-studded shorts.
For footwear, Simone Rocha once again collaborated with Crocs, creating a platform ballet pump and Trailbreak hybrid that was both sweet and sporty. The entire show captured the delicate transition between romance and insecurity in a young girl, embodying the complexity of growing up.
◆ Dilara Findikoglu
Dilara Findikoglu's "Cage of Innocence" showcased a shattered aesthetic and a narrative of taboo.
The stage, shrouded in darkness, created a sense of oppression, with corsets, shredded lace, and tulle layered together, while cherries and metal chains added a touch of danger.
The models, seemingly trapped in a cage, their struggling gestures striking. At the climax, they tore fabric and performed exaggerated movements, symbolizing liberation.
The juxtaposition of sensuality and fragility ultimately led to freedom, expressing the power and hope of women as they transition from bondage to autonomy.
◆ Patrick McDowell
Patrick McDowell's "Lancashire Rose" paid tribute to his grandmother, Kathleen.
Black organza and ombré roses covered the stage, while vintage coats and wedding dresses intertwined memories of the past.
The collection embodied both family sentiment and a sustainable approach. Over 30% of the looks were recycled, with the remaining fabrics sourced from circular textile companies.
The show, brimming with tenderness and resilience, spoke of the coexistence of these two forces in contemporary fashion.
◆ Roksanda
Inspired by sculptor Barbara Hepworth, Roksanda's garments morphed like soft sculptures.
Architectural silhouettes and irregular cuts were accented with fringed details, creating garments that sculpted curves with each model's stride.
The colors shift from high saturation to gentle gradients, with layers of orange, pink, and blue cascading through the seasons, creating a restrained yet rich visual effect.
This season's collections strike a balance between rationality and lyricism, emphasizing the gentle side of feminine strength.
◆ Erdem
Erdem draws inspiration from the 19th-century medium Hélène Smith, using surrealist techniques to create a dreamlike atmosphere.
High collars, corsets, and capes define retro silhouettes, while intricate lace and embroidery are accented with bows and irregular pleats.
The heightened color saturation, interweaving bright red, emerald green, and deep blue, creates a mysterious atmosphere. The show felt like a séance, juxtaposing romance and fantasy, leaving the audience suspended between reality and fantasy. img27
◆ Ashley Williams
Ashley Williams returned to the official schedule, featuring the theme "Care and Comfort Systems," transforming the uniforms of nurses, soldiers, and factory workers into extravagant looks.
Orthopedic pads were embroidered with roses, toilet paper patterns were transformed into bracelets, and workwear was embellished with slogans and jewelry.
A vibrant palette of pink and pale yellow macarons, paired with music by P!NK and The Corrs, evoked a nostalgic atmosphere.
Using humor and irony, Williams placed everyday workers at the center of the runway, bringing a new sense of fun to ordinary life.
◆ Burberry
Daniel Lee closed Burberry's show in a tent in Kensington Gardens.
Acid-washed denim, crocheted suits, checked trench coats, and leather jackets intertwined, with vibrant colors and metallic details.
Fringed coats and tarot scarves reinforce a spirit of freedom, while retro aviator sunglasses and Black Sabbath's drum beats inject a rebellious rhythm.
Burberry reimagines the British plaid with a youthful narrative, blending music festival culture with traditional roots to create an atmosphere both nostalgic and liberated.
●
London Fashion Week has always stood out among the four major fashion weeks.
It lacks the emphasis on extreme luxury of Paris's haute couture, nor the commercial sophistication of Milan, nor the market-driven approach of New York.
London's strength lies in its in-depth exploration of culture and identity, and its open embrace of emerging designers. From avant-garde theater to experimental materials, from historical perspectives to social issues, London Fashion Week has always dared to find breakthroughs amidst uncertainty.
It is both a continuation of tradition and a cradle of rebirth. Fashion here is not just about the shifting of trends, but also the intersection of cultural soul and the spirit of the times.